Teenagers are shifting their reliance from ‘Dr Google’ to artificial intelligence (AI) for skincare advice, with a key driver being that they can chat with tools such as ChatGPT, which is not the case with a search engine.
This is according to Dr Judey Pretorius, who tells ITWeb that one of the key differences between AI and Google is that AI feels conversational and human, which makes people more likely to trust and engage with it.
“AI feels like a person. It feels like you’re actually interacting with a human. There’s something real about it,” says Pretorius. She adds that this human-like interaction is part of the reason people are increasingly turning to AI platforms for medical and skincare advice.
One per 250 000
As the penetration of AI increases, there has been a definite increase in people using tools such as ChatGPT for skincare advice, says Pretorius, particularly because of convenience, as well as the high cost and scarcity of dermatologists in South Africa.
One of the biggest frustrations in South Africa is there’s only one dermatologist for every 250 000 people, Pretorius says. “So, the waiting list for a certain dermatologist is so long and so expensive. So, why don’t you just use AI? It’s much cheaper and there’s no waiting list whatsoever.”
The shift is visible in her own consultations. Patients arrive using specific medical terminology drawn from AI responses, and some check their phones mid-consultation to verify what she has said. “You can immediately pick up in the way they speak with you, because it’s a too calculated answer or response.”
A Cornell University paper finds that more than three billion people lack access to care for skin disease. AI diagnostic tools may aid in early skin cancer detection; however, most models have not been assessed on images of diverse skin tones or uncommon diseases.
The self-diagnosis trap
The problem with using AI as a solution is that it can provide generalised advice without understanding the unique medical, hormonal and lifestyle factors that influence an individual’s skin, explains Pretorius.
“The human skin is very unique. It’s as unique as your fingerprint. It’s as unique as your signature,” says Pretorius. “Depending on where you are in your life, that will probably be a reason why you should use certain ingredients in cosmetics and why you should rather not use certain ingredients in cosmetics.”
While AI can provide accurate information drawn from peer-reviewed medical literature, Pretorius says concerns around self-diagnosis and the lack of human intervention remain. Skin conditions can often point to underlying systemic health issues – dark circles around the eyes, for example, can indicate endometriosis, while breakouts around the mouth may point to polycystic ovary syndrome.
Self-diagnosis can also have serious consequences. Pretorius points to melanoma as an example – a patient checking the ABCDEs of melanoma on their own could either catastrophise a harmless sunspot or, more dangerously, dismiss a genuine cancer. “The human intervention is still necessary.”
Starting too early
Pretorius says younger users are particularly vulnerable to misinformation and unnecessary skincare trends promoted through AI tools. Tweens and teens are increasingly using advanced anti-ageing products far too early, often resulting in premature eczema, acne and rosacea, as well as long-term skin barrier damage.
“It’s as if AI basically guides them and tells them, listen, it is a good idea for you, even though you’re a tween or a teen, to start with certain advanced anti-aging ingredients right now,” says Pretorius. “The younger generation, they are actually starting with advanced anti-aging like a decade too early.”
Pretorius says this can have knock-on effects on self-esteem and mental health, given the direct link between skin health and psychological wellbeing. “The human skin is a public organ, and it has a direct impact on your self-esteem.”
Dr Anjali Mahto, a consultant dermatologist at Self London, tells UK publication The Guardian: “There is also a degree of keeping up with their friends, as well as frequently chopping and changing their skincare to fix their acne, when what they really need is medical intervention… It’s concerning and it’s undoubtedly been fuelled by social media.”
The Guardian notes that dermatologists are saying children as young as 10 are putting pressure on their parents to buy them expensive anti-ageing skincare products that could damage their sensitive skin. Specialists advise a basic skincare routine at a young age – cleansing twice daily, a light moisturiser and sunscreen when UV levels are high.
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